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Alone in the Devil’s Cave in Atacama, Chile


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Pukara Quitor

Posted by on November 21st, 2019

Alone and deep in a cave beneath the Pukara de Quitor archeological site in northern Chile’s Atacama desert, I lost sight of the last light from the narrow entrance I’d come through and shuddered in the utter darkness.  “Hmm… I wonder why they call this cave La Cueva del Diablo (The Devil’s Cave),” I pondered. … Read Full Post

Luxury River Cruises in Northern Peru


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Posted by on November 11th, 2019

An Amazon River cruise in northern Peru is a great way to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the Amazon jungle without forgoing the comforts of a luxury accommodation. During a recent trip to Peru, I embarked on a luxury Amazon River cruise out of Iquitos.  The cruise traveled through the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve,… Read Full Post

The Magic of the Coca Leaf


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Coca leaves

Posted by on November 7th, 2019

It may come as a surprise and sound a little strange at first, but every hotel you encounter during your adventure to Machu Picchu will almost certainly offer you a hot cup of mate de coca, tea made from coca leaves (yes, the very same leaves that cocaine comes from, but the tea is non-addictive)…. Read Full Post

Book Report: Darwin’s Ghosts


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Posted by on November 1st, 2019

It seems safe to say that we all know the name Charles Darwin. Widely credited with proposing the theory of natural selection, Darwin is considered one of the fathers of evolutionary theory. In the Galapagos Islands, where his travels as a young man led him to many of his theories, his name and story are… Read Full Post

The Unexpected Side of Easter Island


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Rano Raraku

Posted by on October 28th, 2019

Easter Island is probably best known for its moai, the enormous and mysterious stone heads that cover the island, but on my last trip there I spent 10 days digging into the more unexplored and unexpected parts of the island. While a full two days is sufficient to explore the moai and the highlights of… Read Full Post

So-Called “Dark” Tourism: Incorporating Difficult Stories into your Journey


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Morrinho Project

Posted by on October 22nd, 2019

South America offers a number of attractions for travelers: beautiful scenery, friendly people, vivacious music and dance, delicious food, fun activities and interesting cultural experiences. Many of the destinations also offer the opportunity to learn about the darker side of local history. So-called “dark tourism” can be tricky. Difficult stories must be told respectfully, with… Read Full Post

Sailing in Rio de Janeiro


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The Kamehameha

Posted by on September 30th, 2019

A gust of tropical wind fills the sails and propels us out of Guanabara Bay and into the Atlantic Ocean.   On the starboard side lies iconic Sugarloaf Mountain, where tourists line up by the thousands to take the cable car to the summit for a view of Rio de Janeiro from 1300 feet above.  Down… Read Full Post

Curanto Al Hoyo (Recipe): Chiloe’s Signature Dish


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Posted by on September 9th, 2019

The curanto is a traditional form of food preparation in the island of Chiloe, a true Chilote classic. Its name derives from the hot rocks used in its preparation, in which a variety of meats, shellfish, and potatoes are cooked over heated stones in an earthen pit. First the rocks are laid down, then the… Read Full Post

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